August 2016 mycuppa Newsletter

It's been a long time, but we have finally shone the spotlight on that mystical enigma of the coffee universe - Sumatra.

A fresh lot from Aceh Gayo has just landed in the country, and it's a cracker - dark, brooding and soulful - the Jack Nicholson in our portfolio and our feature coffee for August 2016.

Over the last month, we have received new arrivals that have been filling up our warehouse.

We are now well-stocked with a variety of fresh seasonal coffees.

This month, we will briefly examine some popular arrivals and compare them to the lots from the previous season.

The Honduras Microlot 87 from July remains a standout in the customer satisfaction rankings, beaten only by the Kenyan, which continues to develop an ever-expanding group of new devotees.

The H87 is getting low, so holdings are limited if you still need to give it a run.

Sumatra - an endless enigma

Over the last three years, we have featured coffee in our monthly Newsletter for almost every origin.

It's never been about a simple process of running through the A to Z of growing regions, but a carefully considered, well-planned journey of discovery to identify that special something, a unique or distinctive nuance worthy of celebrating within that origin or coffee.

At times, we have referred to the coffee equivalent of a Bucket List, and taking a prominent place in the shortlist of any coffee lover experience are those diverse offerings from Monsoon Malabar, Kenya, Ethiopia and last but not least, the enigmatic Sumatran.

With Sumatran coffee, it's an experience unlike any other origin - wild, bold and memorable.

Indonesia has historically ranked as the 4th largest coffee producer, and it's been exporting coffee for 300 years.

However, excessive rains have yielded lower crop volumes in the last few seasons.

At various times, it sits in the world volume ranking between 4th and 6th.

Indonesia's tropical, volcanic soils and high-altitude terrain provide ideal coffee-growing conditions.

With this long history of exporting coffee, Indonesia was sometimes referred to in the past as "Java", with the famous blend known as "Mocha (Moka) Java" consisting of Sumatran and Ethiopian beans.

Still, to this day, it's a match made in heaven.

Around 90% of the coffee production across Indonesia/Sumatra consists of many small landowners from holdings averaging around 1 hectare.

These farms are relatively small in size compared to other farms in the coffee industry.

After being exported, the coffee undergoes sorting, grading, and hand-picking up to three times.

The beans from various farms are then blended, creating diverse flavours and qualities.

It's common to notice differences in the coffee produced and packaged under the same brand or label.

It has taken more than two years for us to be ready to feature such a charismatic and essential origin as Sumatra.

Like many Australian companies, we constantly experience a shortage of coffee supplies, always careful to stay in the coffee type many of our regular customers depend on.

Around four years ago, companies roasting in the giant North American coffee market accustomed to sourcing most of their coffees from nearby Central and South America stumbled upon the impressive features of Sumatran coffees.

For some of them, it was a real wake-up call.

In Sumatra, these giant North American roasters found a bean with an incredible body, flavour, complexity, acidity and, more importantly, something that possessed an ability for extended shelf life.

Like Monsoon coffee, Sumatrans tend to improve with age, making them ideal for the US market, which is less reliant upon freshly roasted beans compared to the rapid turnover of products by the espresso culture in Australian and New Zealand markets.

The mega buyers at Starbucks, Green Mountain, etc., in North America that can each buy more coffee than the whole of Australia consumes swooped up large portions of annual crops in Sumatra and booked up forward years harvests, creating a dramatic spike in the buying price and a global shortage as demand exceeded supply.

On top of the increased demand, excessive rains in the last few years affected the harvest volumes, spoiling lots during the harvesting, drying and processing stages.

Sumatran coffees are unique due to a processing technique different from every coffee-growing area.

Wet-hulling (or Giling Basah) is a process of mechanically "beating" the hand-picked cherries by removing the outer skin and then drying them for a day in beds with intact mucilage.

This process is considered high-risk due to increased moisture levels, which can cause partial fermentation and negatively impact the flavour of the coffee if not correctly managed.

Rain during this period can ruin the coffee as these small farms have limited infrastructure to protect the processing of the coffee from the elements.

In the past, these types of moisture-related defective characteristics (mould, rust, ferment) would pull down Sumatran cup scores significantly.

Search on the internet, and you might find outdated descriptors like forest floor, funky, spicy, etc., from articles published a long time ago; however, these days, farmers in Sumatra are far more aware of quality practices and will take the required steps to achieve cleaner and higher graded coffees.

Sumatra has come a long way over the last ten years.

Sumatran coffees are processed using a unique method that contributes to their low acidity, intense body, and remarkable complexity.

There is nothing else like it anywhere else in the coffee universe.

In 35 years of coffee appreciation, Sumatra remains at the top of my list as an origin that surprises and delights with every new arrival.

Sumatrans are bold and "out there" in ways that no other coffee origin can match.

After all this time, I remain enchanted by Sumatran coffees because just when you think you have a handle or understand Sumatran coffees, along comes something new and exciting to disrupt your knowledge.

We sourced Sumatran naturals from the esteemed Wahana Estate a few years ago.

These coffees were not traditionally wet-hulled and were processed like Ethiopians by sundried methods.

The Wahana's were so "out there" that nothing could touch them - papaya, strawberry, melon, lime leaves and tropical fruit salad in a cup - simply amazing.

These coffees were so "out there" that people who tasted them did not know what to say - speechlessness was common.

A long time ago, in my early coffee roasting days, I remember the first few months of dealing with Sumatran coffee.

A mottled appearance gives the impression of an ugly coffee, the musty odours of the raw coffee were rank, and the funky, indescribable aromas of the freshly roasted product were confronting.

In those days, most things about Sumatrans did not make sense.

I had made the novice mistake of attempting to taste these freshly roasted coffees when they were still developing and fell into the common trap.

Little did I realize that Sumatran coffees needed to be "put away" for ten days after roasting, or else the cup was harsh and abrasive.

Some of my most memorable coffees have been 90-day-old Sumatrans - they refine so well with age.

So, what precisely do you get with a Sumatran coffee that makes it so unique?

Intense body - That thick, syrupy substance coats every surface of your mouth, leaving a long-lasting viscosity.

Boldness - whilst Sumatrans are typically low in acid, they exhibit incredible flavour with lemony acids and complex spices that persist through the long finish.
Buttery mid-palate - there is a level of richness from Sumatrans that makes for a pleasant experience from ultra smooth, silky delivery of flavours.

Versatile - As a Black or in milk, Sumatrans have a universal ability to span many brew methods. The caramel, toffee, and chocolate notes are as glorious as a milk-based espresso. Combined with legendary long finishes, it's no surprise that roasting companies worldwide continue scrambling to get their hands on great quality Sumatrans.

Just two weeks ago, an outstanding Aceh Gayo Grade 1 arrived in Melbourne - it's super-fresh and juicy.

Last Tuesday, we took delivery of the first shipment that will become a regular staple in our store offering.

This fabulous coffee comes from our good friends at Langdon Coffee Merchants in Melbourne.

Langdon's has selected a superb quality lot we proudly showcase to our mycuppa customers around Australia.

The Gayo region is renowned for producing high-quality Arabica.

This coffee originates from the Pondok Baru and Redelong villages within the Bener Meriah Regency, the northern part of Central Aceh.

Grown between 1200-1400 MASL, this Typica varietal is wet-hulled in the traditional Sumatran method and is everything we have come to love and expect from a great Sumatran coffee.

Cup Profile:

Dark cup with blackcurrant and soft cedar notes upfront. Coriander seed mid-palate.
Toffee and dark fruit sweetness throughout.
Well-balanced, tart, sustained acid and syrupy, full body.
Intense, very long burnt toffee and molasses finish. Coating and lingering.
Score: 84.00

These freshly roasted coffee beans represent exceptional value and nail that classic Sumatran experience.

They tend to require a finer grind setting. Grab it here - Sumatran Coffee Beans.

'tis the season

July and August are the peak months for new crop arrivals from Africa, Central America, Sumatra and PNG.

The arrival of new season coffees is a thrilling time for us.

We are excited to create new flavours with new stockpiles, improving our performance standards.

Everyone is looking for an edge in a saturated and competitive market - that critical point of difference.

Whilst some industries constantly seek the lowest sourcing costs, it's a different story in the global coffee industry as challenges involved in sourcing quality lots affect the supply and demand metrics.

With the ever-increasing demand for better quality coffees, prices paid are constantly rising as buyers must meet whatever the market asks.

In many ways, the trading of raw coffee has become similar to the Melbourne and Sydney residential real estate markets.

The Prices you thought were not possible 12 - 18 months ago seem cheap today.

Here is our summary of the new arrivals.

Kenya is a clear leader in our portfolio and a customer favourite. New season lots have arrived, and the quality is comparable to last season, if not marginally better. Kenya is a critical coffee in our holdings, so we don't muck around with inferior attributes to make up volumes. Think deep, dark chocolate. Prices are higher. Kenya will always be a seller's market; they set the price, and if buyers don't commit, they withdraw, knowing that buyers will return later. Kenya is the Apple or the Dyson of the coffee world.
Monsoon Malabar - we have picked up some fresh A-grade Malabar that arrived this week. This screen size is smaller than the AA but more vivid.
Costa Rica - The new Jaguar differs from the previous season's specially prepared honey-lot. This refers to an increased quantity of stone fruit without the overpowering sweetness of the honeyed variety. This washed coffee presents a more refined balance. Costa Rica, like Panama, has been suffering from a rapidly rising cost structure, and it's accelerating faster than expected - farming land is being converted to real estate for development, challenging the traditional economics of farming.
PNG - we are predicting big things for PNG and look forward to this one going off the scale. We have been short on PNG for many years, whilst a degree of turmoil existed in local supply and distribution channels. We are excited to announce a trusted, highly regarded supply with fresh lots arriving at the end of August. Watch this space for more information - we are going long on PNGs for the remainder of the year and perhaps beyond.
Ethiopia - We have received some excellent fresh lots of Sidamo, significantly boosting our stocks. Previously, we had an abundance of Limou beans and a shortage of Sidamo, but we have now changed our strategy to focus on the qualities of washed Sidamos. Harrar has remained popular since our feature in June, whereas Yirgacheffe still poses a challenge due to the high cost of the lots and intense competition. It is always challenging to find this particular type of coffee.
Tanzania - Rich and complex lots showing sparkling acid, rich caramel and cane sugar sweetness are inbound soon to our store.
Burundi - new lots arrived in our roastery a couple of months ago. It shows balanced chocolate, hints of fruit and excellent levels of flavour and body. Many customers who have tried Burundi have stuck with it as a permanent favourite on their regular orders.
FAIRTRADE Organic lots from PNG, Sumatra, Colombia, Ethiopia, Peru, Mexico and Nicaragua have recently been stocked in the warehouse, giving us a good run for the remainder of 2016.
Sumatra - the new Aceh coffee we feature this month, will remain a staple in our store while stocks last. Dark fruit sweetness with a very long toffee and molasses finish.
Guatemala - new crop arriving late August for both the stellar Huehuetenango and the bold Antigua - expect similar quality and consistency.
India - Tiger Mountain and Mysore Nuggets remain our key offerings outside the famous Monsoon Malabar. The Mysore Nuggets is exceptional as a black coffee - soft acidity and delightful balance - my go-to coffee for a shortie.