mycuppa October 2016 Newsletter.
Rwanda - a remarkable Cinderella storyMany of our mycuppa customers venture on the journey of single-origin coffee discovery.
Over time and with enough exposure to the various nuances of different coffee origins and varietals, people develop opinions on which coffees produce the most desirable characteristics of complexity and intensity best suited to their preferences.
It should come as no surprise that coffees from many African countries remain a key focal point for coffee-roasting companies and coffee-drinking enthusiasts.
One thing is sure: demand for quality African coffees has always been high and will continue at insatiable levels.
With African coffees, it seems to always be a case of demand outstripping supply - we just can't seem to get enough!
Whether it's the robust, crisp and clean flavours of a Kenyan, the fruity complexity of an Ethiopian or the sublime zesty acidity of a Tanzanian, it's no secret that African coffees can punch well above their weight in most of the attributes we generally associate with a fine cup.
Not every horse is a winner, though, and it's important to note that a default decision to buy an African coffee will not guarantee to blow your socks off.
There are good and bad coffee lots in every origin, and poor roasting or preparation can ruin even the best ones.
Commercially, some African origins - particularly prime lots from Kenya and Ethiopia - have kept rising in price driven by excessive demand to the point of reaching a borderline risk for selling these expensive lots into a competitive retail market.
Consumers are sensitive to price changes, and while we all want to be coffee superheroes, sourcing quality from the cult-status superstars of Kenya and Ethiopia places up to a 30% premium on the price of retail coffee - which may not leave a pleasant aftertaste.
So, what can you do if some coffee origins are pricing themselves out of the market?
One of the most challenging aspects of a coffee roasting operation is sourcing the raw ingredients.
With so many lots on offer, it's time-consuming to sort through lists and samples when attributes and characteristics may appear on paper as quite similar yet vary considerably during cup evaluation.
We have invested higher resources in the less famous African Group of 3 - Tanzania, Rwanda and Burundi (TRB) for over five years.
These origins have provided us with exceptional success in offering critical points of difference to a crowded Australian retail coffee market.
Our strategy with TRB has been simple - source a superior cup for a better-valued price point.
Over the last few months, builders have been fitting out the internals of the warehouse next door to us.
Recently, the owners moved in, and as a welcome gesture, I made coffees, etc.
Some of the staff were avid coffee lovers and accustomed to drinking takeaways from the local food business in the industrial estate (well, you can probably guess what that coffee is like).
To say they fell off their chairs would be an understatement.
"What is this ?"
"It's amazing !"
"I can't believe it"
"My goodness, it's incredible"
"Never tasted anything like it before"
And on it went. We never seem to tire from seeing this reaction, it's priceless.
In explaining the coffee they were drinking, I pulled back from my regular technical lecture, shrugged my shoulders, and said it was from Africa.
The coffee was our Rwanda Inzovu - a country with an incredible story of recovery and success.
Mention the word Rwanda, and the average person thinks of the tragedy from the 1990s when more than 750,000 people died in the genocide between Waring Hutus and Tutsis.
During the Belgian Empire's rule in the 1930s, coffee cultivation began in Rwanda to establish a sustainable agricultural economy.
However, Rwanda adopted a "mass volume" strategy for coffee production, which, unfortunately, led to a well-known chronic problem of producing low-quality coffee that fetched low prices, similar to many other coffee origins in the past.
Due to the large amount of coffee being made and the need for more financial resources, the Rwandan coffee industry could not invest in the necessary infrastructure to process raw coffee to meet the quality standards required by the global market.
Before the genocide, Rwandan coffees were sold at low prices as excessive supply exceeded demand.
It was common for crops to be destroyed as nobody wanted the coffee - being low quality from poor farmers lacking the essential financial means to grow and process correctly.
Prices paid were trending lower and lower in desperate attempts to move inventory - a terrible spiral.
Just 15 years ago, the Rwandan coffee industry was on the brink of collapse.
The country's leaders made tough decisions to adjust trade barriers and restrictions.
The coffee industry in Rwanda essentially hit the RESET button.
It started a different strategy of focusing on quality (specialty grade).
In 14 years, the average price per kilo for quality coffee crops increased by an incredible 1700%.
The higher prices being paid for the extra care and attention required to produce quality lots enabled farmers to invest back into further improving their infrastructure.
Also, they provided financial benefits to the farming communities primarily structured around co-op.
Farmers could now afford to send their children to school, and the coffee industry contributed to the Rwandan economy.
Today, Rwanda produces some of the world's best coffees, and the global coffee industry has noticed.
It participates in the prestigious Cup of Excellence program, and we now see Rwanda held in similar regard to Kenya, Tanzania and Ethiopian coffees.
In May 2014, we featured the superb Rwanda Inzovu in our monthly newsletter, which remains a core ongoing coffee in our portfolio.
We have been buying lots from Rwanda for almost four years, and with each new crop, we have seen consistently improving qualities.
Many of our mycuppa customers have learned that this bean is unique as we see repeated Rwanda purchases regularly, meeting our customers' needs and expectations.
Like our spectacular PNG Highlands lot, the Rwanda Inzovu delivers attributes that everyday coffee drinkers desire - ultra-smooth, rich, and creamy with a long toffee finish.
As a milk-based espresso, there is an almost perfect symmetry.
This coffee is highly reliable and accommodating, making it a perfect choice for coffee enthusiasts who are never disappointed.
It has a tart green apple acidity, a full and thick body similar to black tea, and a delightful aroma combining caramel, lime, and floral scents.
The flavour is a unique blend of lemon, plum, and candied grape sweetness with a long chocolate finish in milk.
You can purchase it here - Rwanda.
Cleaning your espresso machine
OK, so the picture has just put you off drinking coffee!
Espresso equipment makes a mess, a serious mess, even when you are careful.
For some people, this mess of invested time, skills, and a lack of consistency drive people away from espresso to the convenience of portion control appliances such as pods and capsules.
The irony is that many people ultimately return to the rich, full-flavoured coffee of espresso and the intense aroma of freshly ground beans.
I often hear or read stories about the cleaning regimes owners of espresso equipment undertake - ranging from "I didn't realize you need to do that" to the extreme, almost OCD-like fanatics that perform an entire chemical back-flush and grinder strip-down weekly.
The equipment manufacturers generally offer a cleaning guideline in the owner's manual.
Sometimes, these instructions are minimalist or cryptic in nature.
I've found two primary cleaning routines relating to espresso machine ownership that need to be more understood - back flushing and descaling.
At times, it can be confusing due to a pervasive list of contradicting or conflicting information published on the internet from well-meaning enthusiasts.
Back-flushing Espresso machines
Coffee is an oil, and it stains. It also sticks like glue and rancid quickly, like any other type of food oil (or fat), when exposed to oxygen.
The accumulation of the remnants of espresso coffee around the portafilter and group head can lead to a degrading taint in the beverage's flavour over time.
The remnants are bitter, very bitter.
There are a few ways to keep this buildup under control.
- You can flush water before and after each shot (highly recommended to remove fines from the shower screen that are sucked up via capillary effect)
- ensure your portafilter is clean when loaded into the group head, e.g. wipe away any excess grounds from filling the portafilter with coffee, particularly on the lugs and rim.
- Use a brush or cloth to periodically wipe excess coffee from around the group seal, shower screen, and group rails (section the portafilter lugs lock into).
- Performing back-flushing with a blind filter - using either chemical powder or none.
- I am removing the group seal and shower screen and cleaning manually.
The biggest misconception with back-flushing espresso machines is the frequency of a chemical clean, e.g. how often should I do this?
Chemical cleaning involves using a powder, a detergent, much like the stuff that goes into your dishwasher, and its purpose is to dissolve coffee oils - breaking it down so it's easier to remove.
Back-flushing detergent is not to be used to descale your coffee machine, as other products are specifically designed for that purpose.
You may be surprised to hear that customers often call us to say they have used back-flushing detergent to describe their coffee machine.
Oh dear!
Chemical back-flushing espresso machines are an essential part of owning the equipment, as relying upon the use of water alone will not adequately do the job over some time.
Used coffee oils are stubborn and stick to everything, and combined with heat and pressure, they only worsen over time.
It's important to note that many lower-end domestic espresso machines, some of which may use pressurized baskets or need a 3-way over-pressure valve, are unsuitable for the back-flushing cleaning technique.
There is a real risk of damaging equipment from excessive pressure if you attempt to use a blind filter on an espresso machine that is not designed for this type of cleaning.
You can injure yourself when removing the portafilter under abnormally high pressure during the back-flush routine.
Please refer to your equipment manufacturer or owner's manual for cleaning instructions, as not all machines are compatible with specific methods.
The timing for when to perform a chemical back-flush is linked to usage and whether you undertake other daily cleaning tasks such as flushing or non-chemical back-flushes after use that can assist in keeping your machine cleaner where it matters most.
The vital point to keep in mind here is that after chemical back-flushing, you need to ensure plenty of water is flushed through the system and to re-season your machine with at least 2 or 3 coffees that are thrown into the sink before making a beverage that is to be consumed.
Removing all traces of the chemicals is critical - it's for this reason I recommend that chemical cleaning should only be done every 8-10 kilos, etc.
In a cafe situation, the volume of coffee being used is distinctly different to the home environment.
Some cafes are chemically cleaned once a week, others every day, depending upon the cafe's quantity and prevailing operating standards.
If you are going to the trouble of chemical cleaning, it's also essential to pay attention to your portafilter, the filter basket should be removed and soak in a solution of espresso back-flush powder and hot water for at least 15 minutes, or soak the entire portafilter head as a unit.
We also suggest trying to remove your shower screen and cup seals (group gasket), but care should be taken to ensure you don't damage the cup seals/group gaskets if you have no spares on hand.
Again, thoroughly flushing with water is essential to remove chemical residues.
Another point to note is that shower screens wear down and sometimes small particles will get trapped in the screen mesh that are difficult to remove.
Shower screens are relatively cheap; replace them every couple of years rather than trying to clean them.
Hold the screen up to the light to check how many holes are blocked, as this blocking may exacerbate espresso shot channelling.
Espresso machine boiler descaling
One of the most controversial aspects of cleaning and maintenance activities is the published advice on descaling.
The quality and type of the water being used in your espresso machine is the governing factor, and you should take the approach of prevention is better than cure, e.g. pre-filter your water to prevent the risks of lime and scale buildup instead of using chemicals to clean more regularly.
Another benefit of caring about the water used in your espresso machine is that it can improve the flavour of the beverages produced by the equipment.
Areas such as WA, SA and some regional towns have tap water that is not entirely suitable for espresso machines - sometimes it can be the hardness or solids that cause issues such as higher levels of lime and scale buildup or greater particle counts that cause sludge to build up in the boiler, thermoblock, pipework or heat exchangers.
If you also have a kettle at home and can peer into its internals, look at how clean it is.
This will give you an idea of what your coffee machine is like.
The use of unfiltered water will reduce the lifespan of your machine.
Some of the components in espresso machines are very small in diameter (less than 1mm), and these can clog and fail from accumulated particles and sludge that are dislodged during operation or cleaning.
If you live in an area with less than ideal water, the best advice is to visit a local water treatment shop and work with them to determine the appropriate local solution.
Quite a few people try the DIY path by ordering test kits and implementing elaborate systems, but sometimes, these differ from the local conditions.
In some cases, reverse osmosis is not ideal for espresso machine water as it strips essential minerals from the fluids.
Regarding when to descale a machine, I tend to err on the conservative side if your device does not have an automatic descaling program built-in or a high-end copper boiler-type espresso machine.
Automatic machines with built-in descale programs and programs run regularly to keep the machine operating successfully.
These tend to be found in devices that use alloy thermo blocks that are more susceptible to reactions with water or even adverse water conditions, and the programs are generally less aggressive with the cleaning cycles and less likely to dislodge particles if run regularly.
There are some essential things to remember when it comes to traditional espresso machines that use copper boilers, heat exchangers, etc.
I have serious concerns about descaling as I've found over the last ten years that descaling can cause further problems - buildup dislodges and makes its way from the bottom of the boiler to the small diameter pipes, fittings and components such as jets, causing blockages and failures a matter of days, weeks or months after heavy or aggressive descaling.
People use three basic types of products for descaling - tablets or powder mixed into a solution to gently clean, citric acid (which I don't recommend) and professional espresso machine liquid descaling solution.
Another reason I don't recommend DIY descaling of high-end espresso machines is because you can likely remove all the descaling concentrates from the boiler and the heat exchangers if the descaling is down in situ.
There are hard-to-reach crevices inside heat exchangers and boilers that will never flush out, and the descaling solution sits, significantly tainting your coffee and water from the machine and could even result in adverse health effects if ingested.
Descaling boilers is best undertaken by total removal of the components; even better, it should be done by a professional.
There is a straightforward test I perform on a coffee machine: run some water from the group head without the portafilter loaded. Smell it.
Does it smell drinkable? You can also repeat this process on the hot-water dispenser from the machine.
If there is an unpleasant odor and your device has been used regularly over the years without a descale, it could be a sign of buildup in your boiler.
